Winter Hand and Nail Care: Cuticles, Brittle Nails and Safe Removal

Hands take the brunt of a Canadian winter. They are washed and sanitized all day, exposed to wind and cold on the walk to the car or bus stop, then dried out again by indoor heat. Nails and cuticles feel it too, splitting and peeling just when you want a festive manicure. This guide covers hand washing without the cracks, when to apply hand cream, gloves, brittle nails and cuticles, safe removal of gel and press-on nails, what to look for in a nail salon, and which nail changes deserve a doctor's attention.

Wash well, then moisturize

Clean hands matter in cold and flu season, so the goal is to protect skin rather than wash less. The Public Health Agency of Canada advises rubbing your hands together for at least 20 seconds, covering palms, backs of hands, between the fingers, thumbs and under the nails. When soap and water aren't available, use a hand sanitizer with at least 60% alcohol for 20 seconds or until your hands are dry. Hand sanitizers authorized in Canada carry an eight-digit DIN or NPN on the label.

To keep washing from wrecking your skin, dermatologists recommend lukewarm water and moisturizing straight afterwards:

• Pat hands gently, leaving them slightly damp, then apply hand cream or ointment right away and work it into fingertips and nails.
• Sanitizer is very drying; apply moisturizer as soon as it has dried.
• Try a different soap if yours leaves hands tight; some are far more drying than others.

Hand cream timing, texture and gloves

Texture matters more than you might expect. Ointments and creams add more moisture to skin than lotions, and dermatologists suggest products that come in a tube or tub rather than a pump bottle, which usually signals a thicker formula. Look for fragrance-free and dye-free options and ingredients such as mineral oil, petrolatum, glycerin, hyaluronic acid or shea butter.

• After every wash: a small amount of a non-greasy cream you can carry in a pocket or bag.
• Before bed: a thicker layer of cream or ointment. Some people like to wear light cotton gloves overnight so it stays put.
• Don't forget lips: the same cold, dry air cracks them, so keep a lip balm next to your hand cream. Our lips department includes balms and lip care.

You'll find hand and body creams in our bath and body department.

Gloves: outdoors and at the sink

Dermatologists say that gloves which keep dry skin from getting wet and protect it from cold, dry air can help it heal. In practice that means two kinds of gloves:

• Outdoor gloves or mittens whenever it is cold or windy. If they get wet from snow, swap them for a dry pair; damp gloves keep skin wet and cold.
• Rubber or household gloves for washing dishes and cleaning. Too much water and harsh detergents are hard on both skin and nails.

If wool irritates your skin, choose gloves with a soft cotton or smooth lining.

Brittle nails and cuticles

According to the Canadian Dermatology Association, the main causes of brittle nails are overexposure to water, harsh soap and detergents, and overuse of nail polish and manicures. Less often, brittle nails can be linked to health issues such as iron deficiency or thyroid disease. To help nails recover:

• Wear rubber gloves for wet chores.
• Moisturize hands, nails and cuticles regularly. Dermatologists suggest rubbing petroleum jelly into nails and cuticles several times a day to reduce brittleness.
• Take breaks from polish and manicures.
• Cut nails straight across with sharp clippers, round the tips slightly, and file in the direction of growth.
• Avoid biting nails or using them as tools to open cans or scrape labels.

Leave cuticles in place. Cuticles protect the nail from infection. Cutting them lets bacteria in more easily, and dermatologists advise against letting anyone push back or cut them. A little cuticle oil or cream keeps them soft without trimming. Browse our nails and manicure department for cuticle and hand care.

Removing gel and press-on nails safely

Much of the damage blamed on gel manicures happens at removal. The American Academy of Dermatology's advice:

1. Never pick or peel. Don't use other nails or tools to pry off polish or artificial nails; it strips layers of the natural nail with it.
2. Let a professional remove gel, or soak only your fingertips in acetone rather than your whole hands, to protect the surrounding skin. One method is to wrap each fingertip in an acetone-soaked cotton pad and foil for about 15 minutes.
3. Moisturize afterwards, since acetone is drying.
4. Give nails a break of one to two weeks between gel applications.

For press-ons, follow the removal directions that come with the kit, go slowly, and stop if you feel resistance rather than forcing the nail off. As with any cosmetic, read and follow the label, and consider regular polish if acetone or repeated gel sets leave your nails peeling.

Nail salon safety

A salon manicure should be relaxing, not a risk. Dermatologists suggest you:

• Ask whether tools are sterilized, and watch that staff clean and disinfect tools after every client.
• Don't let the technician cut or push back your cuticles.
• Choose salons that cure gel with LED lamps, which emit lower levels of UV and cure more quickly. Before a gel manicure, apply broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to your hands, or wear dark fingerless gloves.

In Canada, public health units inspect personal service settings. In Toronto, the BodySafe program lets you look up inspection results (pass, conditional pass or closed) for businesses including nail salons, and file a complaint if you suspect a place isn't properly maintained. Elsewhere, contact your local public health unit.

When nail changes need a doctor

Winter dryness causes peeling and splitting, but some changes are worth having examined. The American Academy of Dermatology lists nail changes a dermatologist should see, including:

• A new or changing dark streak in the nail, which can occasionally be a sign of melanoma.
• A nail lifting away from the skin.
• Redness, swelling or pain around the nail, which may signal infection.
• Greenish-black discolouration, pitting, deep grooves across the nail, or spoon-shaped nails.
• Any other colour change you can't explain.

See a doctor too if hands stay cracked, bleeding or itchy despite good care; persistent symptoms can be hand eczema, which may need prescription treatment.

Winter hand and nail checklist

• Wash for 20 seconds in lukewarm water; use 60%+ alcohol sanitizer when needed.
• Moisturize right after every wash or sanitizer use, and again at bedtime.
• Wear gloves outside and rubber gloves for wet chores.
• Keep cuticles, and let no one cut them.
• Never pick off gel or press-ons; soak fingertips only, then moisturize.
• Check salon hygiene and inspection results.
• Get dark streaks, lifting, painful swelling or odd colour changes checked.

Frequently asked questions

When should I apply hand cream in winter?

Right after washing, while hands are still slightly damp, and as soon as hand sanitizer has dried. A thicker cream or ointment at bedtime also helps.

What causes brittle nails in winter?

The Canadian Dermatology Association lists overexposure to water, harsh soap and detergents, and overuse of polish and manicures as the main causes. Less often, brittle nails can be linked to iron deficiency or thyroid disease.

Should I cut my cuticles?

No. Cuticles protect the nail from infection, and dermatologists advise against cutting or pushing them back. Keep them soft with cuticle oil, cream or petroleum jelly instead.

How do I remove gel polish without damaging my nails?

Don't pick or peel it. Have a professional remove it, or soak only your fingertips in acetone, for example with acetone-soaked cotton wrapped in foil for about 15 minutes, then moisturize and give nails a break of one to two weeks.

Which nail changes should a doctor check?

See a doctor or dermatologist for a new or changing dark streak, a nail lifting off, redness or swelling around the nail, greenish-black discolouration, pitting, deep grooves or unexplained colour changes.