Retinol vs Retinoids in Canada: What's Cosmetic and What's Rx

Retinol is one of the most talked-about skincare ingredients, and one of the most confusing. Retinol, retinal, retinoids, tretinoin, adapalene: the names sound alike, yet in Canada some of them are everyday cosmetics and others are prescription drugs. This guide explains the difference, what the Canadian rules say, and how to start a cosmetic retinol gently now that the air is turning cold and dry.

Retinoids are the family, retinol is one member

"Retinoid" is the umbrella term for ingredients related to vitamin A. The American Academy of Dermatology describes prescription retinoids such as tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene and trifarotene, and explains that retinol is a type of retinoid found in non-prescription skincare.

Cosmetic vitamin A ingredients are converted in the skin, step by step, toward retinoic acid, the form that acts on skin cells. As a rough guide (the overall formula matters as much as the ingredient name):

• Retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate: the mildest, furthest from the active form.
• Retinol: the most common cosmetic option.
• Retinal (retinaldehyde): one conversion step closer to retinoic acid.
• Retinoic acid (tretinoin) and synthetic retinoids such as adapalene: prescription drugs in Canada.

Cosmetic or drug? How Canada draws the line

Health Canada's guidance on products at the cosmetic-drug interface explains that a cosmetic is used for cleaning, improving or altering the complexion, skin, hair or teeth, while a drug is used to treat, mitigate or prevent a disease, disorder or abnormal physical state, or to restore, correct or modify body functions. Both the ingredients and the claims made about a product decide which side it falls on.

For vitamin A, the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist sets firm limits for cosmetics sold in Canada:

• Retinol and its esters: up to 1.0% total retinol equivalents in most cosmetics, and up to 0.2% in leave-on products meant for the whole body, such as body lotion.
• Retinal: up to 0.05% in most cosmetics, and up to 0.01% in full-body leave-on products.
• Retinoic acid and its salts: on the prohibited list, so not allowed in cosmetics at all.

What about adapalene?

In some countries adapalene gel is sold without a prescription, which causes a lot of confusion online. In Canada, Health Canada's Drug Product Database lists Differin (adapalene 0.1% gel) under the Prescription schedule, and the 0.3% strength is listed as prescription too. Tretinoin products are also listed as prescription. If you are curious about these, speak with your doctor, nurse practitioner or dermatologist, or ask a pharmacist what options exist in your province.

Opulora Beauty does not sell prescription products. Our Serums & Treatments department covers cosmetic formulas only.

How to start a cosmetic retinol

Retinol rewards patience. Going slowly is what keeps most people using it long enough to judge it.

1. Choose a gentle formula first. Dermatologists suggest starting with the least intense formula you can find. Not every label states a percentage, so a product described as a starter or low-strength retinol is a sensible first step.
2. Start every other night, or less. The AAD recommends using a retinoid every other night to begin and slowly building up. Many people start with two or three nights a week in winter.
3. Use it at night on clean skin. Wash with a mild cleanser from our Cleansers, Toners & Makeup Removers department, pat dry, then apply a small amount as the label directs.
4. Follow with moisturizer. A plain, fragrance-free cream helps offset dryness. Browse our Moisturizers & Creams for textures that suit your skin.
5. Add one new active at a time. Using several anti-aging products at once can irritate skin, so hold off on new acids or peels until your skin has settled.

Expect gradual change. The AAD notes that most skincare products take at least six weeks to show results, and sometimes up to three months.

Irritation, dryness and Canadian winters

Early on, retinol can cause dryness, flaking, tightness or mild redness. Indoor heating and cold wind can make these feel worse between October and March. If your skin is uncomfortable:

• Drop back to fewer nights a week until it calms down.
• Apply moisturizer before retinol as well as after it, to buffer it.
• Keep it away from the corners of the eyes, nostrils and lips.
• Stop using any product that burns or stings, and see a pharmacist or doctor if irritation continues.

People with darker skin tones should be especially careful, because the AAD notes that irritation can trigger dark marks (hyperpigmentation). If you have rosacea, eczema, very dry skin or known skin allergies, check with a dermatologist before starting any retinoid.

Sun sensitivity: sunscreen is not optional in November

Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, which is one reason they are used at night. Pair them with daily sunscreen. Health Canada recommends a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and reminds Canadians to protect their skin on cloudy days and in winter, because snow reflects UV rays. Sunscreens sold in Canada carry a DIN or an NPN on the label, which is a quick way to confirm you are buying an authorized product. Hats and shade still count too.

Pregnancy, breastfeeding and other times to ask first

The AAD's pregnancy skin care advice lists retinoids, including both prescription treatments and over-the-counter retinol products, among the ingredients to avoid during pregnancy. If you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, ask your doctor or pharmacist before using any product containing retinol, retinal or other vitamin A ingredients.

The same applies if you already use a prescription skin treatment or take an oral acne medication: ask the prescriber before adding a cosmetic retinol on top.

Your retinol starter checklist

• Cosmetic retinol and retinal are limited by Health Canada's Hotlist; tretinoin and adapalene are prescription drugs here.
• Start with a gentle formula, every other night or less, at night only.
• Cleanse, apply a small amount, then moisturize.
• Introduce one new active at a time and wait at least six weeks before judging results.
• Wear broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning, including snowy days.
• Pregnant, trying or breastfeeding? Ask your doctor or pharmacist first.

When you are ready to build a routine around it, explore our full Skincare department.

Frequently asked questions

Is retinol the same as a retinoid?

Retinol is one type of retinoid. "Retinoid" is the umbrella term for vitamin A related ingredients, which includes cosmetic retinol and retinal as well as prescription drugs such as tretinoin and adapalene.

Is adapalene available without a prescription in Canada?

No. Health Canada's Drug Product Database lists adapalene 0.1% and 0.3% products under the Prescription schedule, even though it is sold without a prescription in some other countries. Ask your doctor, nurse practitioner or pharmacist about it.

How much retinol is allowed in Canadian cosmetics?

Health Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist limits retinol and its esters to 1.0% total retinol equivalents in most cosmetics and 0.2% in full-body leave-on products. Retinal is limited to 0.05%, or 0.01% in full-body leave-on products.

How often should a beginner use retinol?

Start every other night or less, at night, on clean skin, and follow with moisturizer. Increase slowly only if your skin stays comfortable.

Can I use retinol while pregnant?

The American Academy of Dermatology advises avoiding retinoids, including over-the-counter retinol, during pregnancy. If you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, ask your doctor or pharmacist before using any vitamin A skincare.